Thursday, August 19, 2010

Barcelona then back to France












Picking up from the last post, we were on our way down to Barcelona from Biarritz. . .we left Biarritz just after 10am for an expected drive of about 6 hours to get to Barcelona. After a quick fuel stop, we crossed into Spain at about 11 am. About half-way through our drive, we stopped in Zaragoza for lunch and a rest. It was really hot, but we parked the car conveniently in a parking station underneath the Plaza de Pilar (the main city square) and had a buffet tapas lunch - which was fabulous.
We feasted on traditional Spanish fare and filled our bellies so we could complete the rest of the long drive. It was really weird. . .after speaking French for a while and communicating so well with the locals, suddenly, we had to resort to sign language and lots of "non hablas Espanol"!
We arrived in Barcelona finally at around 6.30pm and found our apartment quite easily. It was beautiful and spacious and the staff were very helpful to us. We settled in and then took a walk around the hotel to get our bearings and decided (after our fabulous tapas lunch) that we weren't that hungry and had a light dinner of fresh fruit and sandwiches before turning in. By the way, we were delighted that of all the places we'd stayed in so far, Spain was the only country to offer one English-speaking channel on its free-to-air channels. So, Steven and I were happy to spend a quiet evening watching a lovely golden oldie movie that we could actually understand!!!
The next day we set out for the centre of town by metro and took a double-decker bus tour of the city (a hop on hop off affair which seems to be the tour of choice for most visitors in large cities now). Actually, they are a really great introduction to a city and this tour was no exception. The kids loved being on the top deck of the bus and we got a terrific view of most of the major attractions. . .starting off in Barri Gotic (or the Gothic Quarter of Barcelona) and continuing up to the hill of Montjuic which overlooks the city and has most of the Olympic facilities (used in the 1992 Olympics). It also took us along the port, and Barcelona's beaches (which incidentally were crammed with people and looked quite inviting).
We had lunch down at Port Vell which has a large shopping centre, aquarium and Imax theatre (a bit like Sydney's Darling Harbour really). We were really keen to have Paella and this restaurant claimed to specialise in this regional dish. Steven and I ordered a paella for two. . .but were slightly disappointed when a tiny paella pan came out!! Of course, we realised that these were tapas-sized paella servings. . .so we ordered another as we were still hungry!! Have to say though, our very good friend Marisol makes a far superior paella than the ones we had in this restaurant!!! That's not to say that we didn't enjoy them. . ."scoffed the lot" as Steven would say!
We finished off our day with a walk down La Ramblas the main tourist strip through the gothic quarter where the boys found their authentic Spanish world cup soccer jerseys and Zoe scored some free maraccas! Later, another trip on the double-decker bus before getting off near our hotel which was situated quite close to the Gaudi-designed temple called La Sagrada Familia. We all had quite mixed feelings about this building as it was very unusual - almost ugly to look at - yet hugely popular as tourists were lining up to get inside from quite early in the morning. However, we all decided that we preferred to admire it from the outside and any view we would get from the top we could (and in fact did) get just as easily from somewhere else.
The next day was a shopping day (yes, I know another one. . .but amazingly one does find things to buy in each different city visited - much to Steven's horror!) so we had a light breakfast in the hotel and hopped on the metro to the centre of town. By the way, we were very impressed with Barcelona's efficient and clean underground transport system. Compared with Paris and to some extent London, this system was fantastic. In fact, the whole of Barcelona was amazingly clean. Lovely really.
I was in search of some authentic Spanish espadrilles (shoes) and dragged everyone through the city's streets trying to find this one shop (which closed for 3 hours in the middle of the day) and apparently is so famous even the Pope gets his espadrilles from here. As we missed it first go, we toured the cathedral and had lunch in another tapas bar (oddly called Chardonnay) and got our first taste of local mussels (great) and the catalan version of creme caramel. Sadly, we didn't really like this version of this classic dessert. . .
Anyway, back on the espadrilles trail, we got to the right shop just before 4.30 when it was to reopen and were amazed when another 20 people seemed to materialise out of nowhere also waiting for the shop to open. Second in line, I quickly got the shoes I wanted and at 20 euros a pair - are the cheapest pair of shoes I have bought on this whole trip!!! No one else was keen to get a pair (even though they are popular with men, women and children alike). Spotted some churros - but as we were due to have dinner at 7.00 decided against it. Some final shopping at a ceramics studio before the long walk up to our dinner rendez-vous which was a dinner-show Flamenco spectacular- trying to work up an appetite. We arrived all hot and sweaty but in time for our appointment. Dinner was served at 7.00 and we enjoyed some more sangria and paella before the most amazing flamenco dancing we have ever seen. This place was called "Palacio Flamenco" and the dancers were amazing, thrilling and so talented. We were all mesmerised and shouting "Ole!", "Ole!", "Ole!" til our throats hurt! It was a fantastic way to spend our last evening in Barcelona. . .
The next day, we packed up and left Barcelona via Tibidabo which is the highest spot above Barcelona and which also has a permanent carnival/amusmement park and hilltop church. We spent a little time there before heading out at about 12.30 pm for Avignon in the south of France.
Arrived in Avignon quite late and had dinner in our hotel room as everyone was a little exhausted from our very long day. Avignon is a unique town as it is completely circled by a massive wall (described as a rampart) with entry points through the wall at regular intervals. While all the boys had a sleep-in the next morning, Zoe and I enjoyed a walk around town trying to find some fresh pastries for breakfast. After everyone had breakfast, we all walked into town for coffee and then a walk around this unusual town. Avignon was once the seat of the Catholic popes and therefore made it the centre of christianity during the 14th century. We toured the Palace of the Popes and then took a river cruise on the Rhone taking in the sights of Avignon. The boys enjoyed a somewhat icy dip in the hotel roof-top pool before heading out to order some takeaway provencal pizzas!
Next morning, we enjoyed a wholesome breakfast in the hotel and then got into the car for our drive to Nice on the French Riviera - less than 3 hours away. We drove into Nice via the coastal roads and caught a good glimpse of the glittering mediterrean waters and the sun-worshippers lining the beautiful, yet rocky beaches of the riveria.
Our apartment was conveniently located on the Promenade des Anglaise (the main beachfront strip) and literally across the road from the beach - although a couple of kilometres from the centre of town. After dumping our bags, we went out to the beachfront for a walk along the promenade and into town for some dinner. It was incredibly windy and we - like everyone else - were dodging papers and holding onto our hats as we walked along. Speaking of windblown. . .my hair is in need of some serious attention! The boys' also are really needing another haircut (even though Steven did the honours in Paris) - where oh where is my hairdresser when I need her?? Mona!!!!!!
We sat down for a well-earned drink after our long walk into town and did some people-watching and listened to some buskers before finding dinner. We ate at a popular brasserie - Brasserie Romaine - where the food was great and service was friendly. Although, our waiter was a bit like Basil from Fawlty Towers - he kept making mistakes and infuriating the other staff! It was so funny to watch. . . well I guess you had to be there. . .
Facing another long walk back to the hotel, we were surprised to find a street party in full swing with bands playing and people dancing in the streets. The atmosphere was wonderful (even though the planned fireworks had to be cancelled due to the windy conditions).

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